1st Attempt At Procharging

Discussion in 'Supercharger Builds' started by Maine1, Aug 28, 2016.

  1. Maine1

    I'm running the F1c which is rated at 1200hp which is close to the F1r's 1225. It would be nice and I sure do hope that I can hit the 1000hp mark at the crank like the procharger tech claimed. Whats the est. loss with a stick from crank to rear wheels?
     

  2. vinces427bb Staff Member

    detroit locker setup with 3.50's would be better with them instead of 4.11's
    you will have more power and torque than you will have traction for :wtf:
     
  3. vinces427bb Staff Member

    15% is the rule of thumb = [range is 14%-18%] for most stock type drive trains from flywheel back...o_O
    your's may vary due to trans fluid viscosity, flywheel weight, driveshaft weight, rear axle type/ratio, wheel weight, tire weight and size :vamp:
     
  4. Maine1

    Been tinkering trying to get my intercooler securely mounted. I was going to skip the intercooler and go with water/meth inj. but I was able to pick up a procharger brand 3 core 1050hp intercooler for less then 1/4 of the price procharger wanted and figured I'd be able to always add the inj. sys. later if needed. I ended up cutting open my radiator support panels opening a few inches on each side to aid the 4 row alum. radiators cooling. Big thing is do I mount the intercooler right in front of the radiator or should I stick 1 of my elec. fans sandwiched in between? I have 2 elec. fans and the FiTech unit can control 2 fans. I was thinking my flex fan on the motor & 1 fan sandwiched between intercooler and Rad. and then 1 in front of intercooler...... or am I just over thinking this and should just keep the flex on the motor and put 1 in front of the intercooler? Any ideas or feedback on this?
     
  5. vinces427bb Staff Member

    you will want both elec. fans on the engine size of the radiator [ pull thru only ]
    the intercooler will get enough air without a fan...
    the radiator on the other hand will need air passing thru the core to control engine temps...:cool:
     
  6. RoushMustang

    Only time those fans do much good is when you're stopped at a light or stuck in slow traffic. Not saying don't do it but I'd spend my money on other go fast parts first.
     
    vinces427bb likes this.
  7. vinces427bb Staff Member

    I guess I read it wrong, the flex fan that you have now should be fine,
    you will know after running the car, whether it keeps it cool or extra / alternative help cooling is needed...:blackalien:
     
  8. Autowiz

    I actually think the real reason that hp supported numbers go down in blow through or any boosted application is because when there is vacuum on the intake side of the fuel injector pintle it flows better because the fuel is being push and pulled. But as boost pressure builds in the intake, the injector flow rate drops all the way until the boost pressure in the intake matches the pressure in the fuel rail and you get no flow. This is a common setting to adjust and most tuning software refers to these tables as something along the lines of injector flowrate vs. kpa.

    In a boosted application, I would not want a flex fan dragging on the crank. I would have 2 electric fans strapped side by side to the radiator and have them wired like this..

    [​IMG]#ad


    the dark blue wire going to the 2 relays would be for high speed. And you have the first fan(low speed) come on at 180 off at 160 And the second fan(high speed) come on at 200 off at 180. This will bring your 2 fans on in series and will only give each fan 6 volts. They will run quietly, live a much longer life, and your lights wont dim when your fans turn on. And there will be no drag on the motor you are obviously trying to get the most out of.
     
  9. SBCSupercharged

    I heard that even with those fan clutches a non-electric fan can cost 10-15 hp to turn at higher speeds. So an electric fan is a good choice NA or boosted.
     
  10. vinces427bb Staff Member

    i think along the line that when you have 700-1000hp on tap; you most likely w/n even miss 10-25hp to turn a mechanical fan:D
     
  11. Autowiz

    So true. Once you start getting up over 500rwhp even 50hp is only 1/10 of your output and as such is hard to feel without a dyno to show you numbers.

    There is an exception to this. And that exception is total output. Take my Honda project i had before my corvette..

    [​IMG]#ad


    Here we can see that 10-15hp might mean the difference of the car being able to move under it's own steam. And surely this would be felt here.
     
  12. boostedbuick

    I run dual electric fans rated for 4000 cfm. The FiTech fan control system works great. The TanksInc tank that i have has a very nice baffle in it. This is much better than the old sumped tank that I had.

    An F-1c? That should get you there! As far as the gear a 3:50 ish gear will be a nicer all around drive. That 540 should be a lot like my 455, torque is not a problem. One of the nice things about the centrifugal blowers is they are very progressive in the power delivery.
     

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